What did you do in your Land Rover today?

[Graeme]

To celebrate Fido's 64th Registration Birthday, I drift-bashed up the lane so I could get the Freelander 2 out to civilisation — probably quite capable on its own, but there's less to damage at the front of a Series 1 if a drift proves too solid to blast through.  Anyhow, it was an excuse for a birthday run!

No photo of today, I'm afraid, but instead a similar one from a previous snowy period.

[6700]

I was planning to go after an absence of a few years, but have changed my mind.  Bob

Come on Bob stop being grumpy, ha ha hope your keeping well.

Andy

[6700]

I just hired a trailer for the Come Back rally 

If your staying on after the show the camp site wants £48 off me just for trailer so I’m takeing it up on a frame.

Andy

[pdes]

If your staying on after the show the camp site wants £48 off me just for trailer so I’m takeing it up on a frame.

Andy

We are coming back on Monday.  Is that "after the show"?

[Henry.M]

Hampshire Sunshine at last, roll on driving over to friends for coffee.


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[Keith Robertshaw]

Fixed two leaks.
Block drain tap was leaking, unscrewed it (by hand!) and found the tap spring kaput - found a replacement, cleaned, rebuilt and reassembled! With ptfe tape and a spanner.

Bosch heater was leaking intermittently  - pulled it apart and found the core looks new, the problem is the inlet pipes on the core are smaller than the rubber pipes - probably a metric size. Not sure how to modify - will Speak to Britannia cooling Leeds.

[nickuk]

If not simply a question of different rubber pipes then you might find the stepped size Silicone hoses used in motorsport helpful.

Can be seen on Ebay under  silicone hose reducer. I used some for something similar - they are a bit stiff but otherwise perfect!

Nick.

[alan reid]

Finally got capstan winch sorted now just need a hand throttle for 2 1/4 petrol . Annoyingly have the proper series one type may try to adapt it somehow

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[Keith Robertshaw]

Thanks nick, found some - great call, thank you

Keith

[Old Hywel]

Finally got capstan winch sorted now just need a hand throttle for 2 1/4 petrol . Annoyingly have the proper series one type may try to adapt it somehow

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Don’t you need a governor, rather than hand throttle?

[msm80]

Hampshire Sunshine at last, roll on driving over to friends for coffee.


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Hi Henry
Yep me too. Needed an urgent trip to screwfix yesterday in Wareham, but somehow I needed a bit of mindfulness 🤔 on the corner of the local heath on the way home!
M

[alan reid]

Hand throttle only specced for capstan winch in WSM all other PTOs need governor  ( still not common  nowadays though)
Probably because when using a bollard winch youhave very fine control of the loading via the free end rope tension ive used my  capstan quite a bit for general winching  work and they are very useable. Not much good for self recovery though
Never snapped a shear pin the thought of that happening and being  pulled back towards the winch by the rope urges caution

Don’t you need a governor, rather than hand throttle?

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[autorover1]

I would urge anyone with a capstan winch to modify it to accept having a shear pin in the drive ( as per versions for late 2A/3),  rather than to rely on the one in the capstan bollard .  As mentioned, if the shear pin breaks in the bollard it is free to rotate and run backwards if you have a load on it.  Because of the friction in a worm & wheel , breakage of a shear pin in the drive  means it just stops but the load can be held on the capstan.  The change only means replacing the fixing pin in the UJ sleeve with the later shear pin .

[Mark Edmunds]

Gearbox back in, yet to reattach the speedometer cable, earth strap and both prop shafts...
Engine next, then Bulkhead fitting, oh also wings, radiator grille to be refitted...Will be back on and off the road soon!

[tankman]

     I am actually fitting a Clayton back in FAP today, the inlet pipes have reducers in like yours. I am using 1/2" ID   rubber pipe onto heater, then drilling out  end to go onto 5/8" OD heater pipes.

[tankman]

   Derek,  That is good advice as long as the shear pin you fit in the drive line, breaks before the existing smaller safety pin fitted in the bollard breaks.  Aeroparts increased the diameter of the safety pin in bollard from 0.265" to 0.328" when they fitted the brass shear pin in drive line. I would suggest fitting the larger  safety pin in bollard when fitting the brass shear pin.

[autorover1]

Hi Bob
I didn't know the bollard pin changed, you learn something every day  . Do you know what grade steel was used in the bollard pin , I was wondering if you upped the bollard pin steel grade , the brass pin would always go first.  I might do some calculations, the capstan was rated at 3000 lbs pull

[tankman]

   Have fitted the Clayton in which Edseries49  has done another great job painting it for me. Copper pipes are bent, the 1/2" ID rubber pipe fits the 5/8" OD copper fine , decided too cold to carry on outside.

[alan reid]

I would second that I  have a shear pin in the driveshaft but thinking now that the bollard pin might let go first

I would urge anyone with a capstan winch to modify it to accept having a shear pin in the drive ( as per versions for late 2A/3),  rather than to rely on the one in the capstan bollard .  As mentioned, if the shear pin breaks in the bollard it is free to rotate and run backwards if you have a load on it.  Because of the friction in a worm & wheel , breakage of a shear pin in the drive  means it just stops but the load can be held on the capstan.  The change only means replacing the fixing pin in the UJ sleeve with the later shear pin .

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[tankman]

       The hole in  the worm drive, and universal joint where mills pin is in, is smaller on the early winch that would have the smaller diameter safety pin in bollard. It is 1/4" diameter, I am wondering if a brass shearpin  will fit. I remember the worm drive is very hard steel. The hole in later universal joints and worm drive seems to be 9/32".

[Keith Robertshaw]

     I am actually fitting a Clayton back in FAP today, the inlet pipes have reducers in like yours. I am using 1/2" ID   rubber pipe onto heater, then drilling out  end to go onto 5/8" OD heater pipes.

Hi Bob, did this work out ok? Is there enough ‘meat’ left on the pipe?  I’ve seen some 1/2 pipe that’s is 20mm o/d, so drilling out for 5/8 - 15.8mm - leaves a 2mm wall thickness. Do you think the pipe is still strong enough for the pressure?

Keith

[tankman]

Keith, Yes Ok , the OD of my pipe is 22.5mm, so there is plenty round it. No ides where I got it from.

[tankman]

   Keith,   I have just done it another way, using 20mm  OD, 1/2"   ID rubber.   No drilling needed.  Linish the ends of your 5/8" heater pipes to give a slight taper, get the end hot with a blow lamp, simply push the rubber pipe on, better than drilling.

[shropshire lad]

Picked up 1.5cu. metres of landscaping bark from my local nursery , which took the bounce out the springs .

[alan reid]

Looks like a  extra axle would support that extended tray nicely good looking truck

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